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Pleats Please Issey Miyake Mellow Pleats Tunic Purple
What is the common point between exquisite Japanese lacquerware, rice mochi and a contact lens flattened between the pages of a notebook? All three are equally interesting to designer Maiko Kurogouchi, who folded them into her ongoing exploration of shape influenced by the 1978 book titled “Nihon no Katachi,” or “The Shapes in Japan” in English. While the designer continued to build on her repertoire of sculptural shapes, there was nothing austere about them in the fall’s materials or fits. The curve of a bowl’s lip and its red-and-black traditional coloring turned into a color-blocked dress composed of jacquard and silk parts connected by gauzy lace. The way a mochi turns into a voluminous puff when grilled informed the pillowy volumes of padded coats that were equal parts comforting and ceremonial. Sensuality emerged from a pucker that ran down the back of a silk gown, skimming the body’s volumes without constraining. Meanwhile, 3D-knitted volumes achieved the visual oomph of exacting cuts with gentle yield better suited to everyday wear. You May Also Like Elsewhere, Kurogouchi referenced suminagashi, a traditional water-and-ink marbling technique at risk of disappearing in Japan, adding graphic oomph to intricate pleats and delicately dip-dyed fuzzy knits. As for those contact lenses, the delicate blue hue of their material was used in the color palette. Conversations with Kurogouchi can attune the culturally curious to her magpie approach to the world. But it’s her impeccable execution and eye for flattering shapes that turns them into devotees, no lengthy explanation needed.
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